Remarkable

This imposing range of mountains south of Lake Wakatipu is named “The Remarkables.”
Apt.

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Majestic

It snowed overnight.
The mountains encircling Glenorchy were blanketed with snow.  Every view from every angle from every spot in the Glenorchy Lake House was majestic.

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Schemes

Rabbie Burns was right, of course.  “The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men / Gang aft a-gley.”  And a-gley my scheme did gang.

I had planned to spend a single night in Glenorchy and then burn the next day driving the five hours down & around the lake and out to Milford Sound on the coast.  But the road to Milford Sound was snowed in.  So, I upgraded from my chilly digs and hunkered down for two more nights at a staggeringly beautiful place called the Glenorchy Lake House.
It was as warm & cozy as the Lodge Glenorchy had been cold & ascetic.  I was so looking forward to two nights in a soft, warm bed.
One shelf of the bookcase in the living room was filled with DVDs.  What’s that I see?  The Lord of the Rings trilogy?  But surely not the Extended Editions.  Yes, the Extended Editions.  I sipped New Zealand Pinot Noir and watched Middle-Earth with panoramic views of the real Middle-Earth out the windows all around me.
Achievement unlocked.

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Scars

The scars of World War I are visible in all parts of the British Empire.  Even in sleepy lakeside towns half a world away from the trenches.

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Albion

The lake is fed by a muddle of streams and rivers flowing down from the mountains to the north.The landscape is a dead ringer for Scotland.Cold……and lonely……and beautiful.
I was amused by this stile over a livestock fence. A storm started to blow in, blanketing the higher mountains with even more snow.

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Encouragement

I found these compost, recycle, and trash bins amusing.  Can’t decide if, as a child, I would find them delightful or if I would find them feeding my nightmares.

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Lost

Part of what I enjoy about traveling is intentionally becoming lost.  In Glenorchy, I had the chance to look up at the Southern sky.  I picked out the Southern Cross but other than that — not knowing any other constellations, not being able to name a single star — I was utterly, completely, delightfully lost.  For the first time since I was a small child, the sky was illegible.  It was like being transported to a distant solar system or into Earth’s distant past or future.

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Top

The north end of Lake Wakatipu tapers off at a small, sleepy town called Glenorchy.  This is the “top of the lake” where acclaimed New Zealand filmmaker Jane Campion set her television show Top of the Lake (which I haven’t seen, not being a fan of acclaimed New Zealand filmmaker Jane Campion.)  But by God does she have good taste in scenery.

Snow-clad mountains and clear sky reflected in serene water.  I love this place.

After paying a bartender upfront for a key, I stayed the night in a frigid, funky, second floor lodge room.The views out the window were spectacular.Simply spectacular.I mean, really spectacular.Just truly fucking spectacular.

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Placid

I blew through the ski resort town of Queenstown and drove the lonely road skirting Lake Wakatipu.
Beautiful snow-capped mountains in every direction.
The sun started setting as I approached the northern end of the lake.

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Sagittarius

Driving west across the South Island from Dunedin, I came to the resort towns around Lake Wakatipu.

Arrowtown is one of the few places in New Zealand whose actual name sounds like it could be a place somewhere in Middle-Earth.  Nearby was a sprawling, ritzy resort complex.
Beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. 

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Ambiguous

Street David Saint?  Saint David Saint?  Please clarify.

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Ominous

Few things are as chilling as the sight of an old medical school at dusk.

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Edinburgh

On the east coast of the South Island, I stayed in a cool college town called Dunedin (pronounced “dun-EE-din”.)   The name has nothing to do with the Dúnedain, as one might expect, but in fact comes from Dùn Èideann which is the Scots Gaelic name for Edinburgh and the town is, indeed, very Scottish.

This was the view outside my motel room.
Near the “octagon” at the center of town, I found this row of Victorian houses that very much reminded me of the “painted ladies” in San Francisco.  I ate dinner at a place called Scotia which promised “modern Scottish cuisine.”
I had some exquisite haggis, smoked beef, and several pints of “apple crumble” cider which tasted of cinnamon.  

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Rust

In Oamaru, heading down the east coast of the South Island, I visited a strange place called the Steampunk HQ.  It was sort of a bastard hybrid of the old pre-gentrification Travel Town (when you could get tetanus or searing burns from the jagged metal) and the Museum of Jurassic Technology.
  
  
  Outside, you could hear the waves crashing on the beach a stone’s throw away.  But you could almost hear the metal rusting in the seasalt air.
  
  The surrounding neighborhood was quaintly Victorian.
  

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Edoras

I took a long, long, long side trip deep into the middle of the South Island to Mt. Sunday, a rocky outcropping on which they built the set for Edoras, the capital of Rohan, for The Lord of the Rings.
I remember in one of the DVD commentaries for The Two Towers someone said that if this geological feature had been found in Europe, it would have already had a castle built on it for a thousand years.
The whole time I was out there, I kept thinking to myself “Look for your friends, but do not trust to hope. It has forsaken these lands.”

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