Disneyland

Shanghai Disneyland officially opened June 16, but — thanks to my coworker Carol’s husband, who has been working on the Pirates of the Caribbean Ride here for years now — Eli, Xiaohan, & I got a chance to visit the park on one of the preview days.

After a very long, very thorough line for security check and then another very long line for the main gate, we were greeted with a red flower version of Mickey (which I thought seemed particularly Chinese.)There’s no train around the park, so this train station-like entrance is essentially just a skeuomorph.The park seemed fairly small.  There is an abbreviated “Main Street” — here called “Mickey Avenue” — replete with City Hall (here pictured after dark.)Mickey Avenue leads to a central hub with the castle as the centerpiece of the park, of course.Xiaohan attempted to leap in front of my shot at one point. Nice try.Counterclockwise around the hub, there is Tomorowland…Fantasyland…Treasure Cove…and Adventure Isle…Despite pouring with rain all morning — and drenching my rain jacket, shorts, socks, & shoes so thoroughly that I was forced to buy a plastic poncho — the park seemed packed.“Soarin’ Over the Horizon” — the new, global footage version of DCA’s “Soarin’ Over California” — was a word-of-mouth favorite among the Chinese guests.  The wait time was 5 hours at one point.

Although they had some Western fare, the food was largely Chinese.We had been warned by Carol ahead of time that, alas, there were no churros to be found.  We figured this “curious” shop would be as close as we would get.
“Tai Chi with Characters” was another thing you don’t see in the U.S. parks.I feel obliged to make a Pīnyīn “Qip & Dale” joke at this point.  Apologies.
From the hub, we headed left to Tomorowland to pick up a Fast Pass for what would prove to be an impressive (but criminally short) Tron ride.

There was also a Big Hero 6 show where they brought kids from the audience up on stage and started doing exercise moves based on the characters’s signature moves in the movie.
Fun fact:  Baymax’s name in Chinese is 大白 (Dàbái meaning “Big White.”)  I’m a little sad this hasn’t caught on as my nickname.  Alas.Interestingly (but unsurprisingly) they had a whole pavilion dedicated to Marvel.
Meet Spiderman, meet Captain America, that sort of thing.It very much felt like a wildly-expensive Comicon booth.
In Fantasyland, they put a new, ahem, spin on the classic Teacups ride and made it Winnie the Pooh themed.  Each pot was labeled “Honey” or “Hunny” or “蜂蜜”.
Inside the castle, there is wonderful walk-through “story” of 白雪公主 (Báixuě gōngzhǔ meaning “White Snow Princess,” naturally.)  It’s sort of patterned on the walk-through Sleeping Beauty storybook inside the castle at Disneyland, but broken into discrete rooms with some truly impressive practical & digital effects.  Glass pane planes of 3D animation, smoking cauldrons, stuff like that.  Eli & I talked about how much fun it must be to be an Imagineer and play with all the coolest technologies & material science in the world. The highlight of the park, as far as I was concerned, was the new Pirates of the Caribbean ride.  It’s the first of the parks to have the ride based on the Johnny Depp movies and it is aesthetically & technically astonishing.  10/10, would ride again.

The theming blends Western & Easter pirates, which I thought was fun.
In line, I saw the first of what I imagine will be years of clashes between Chinese culture and Disney culture.  A woman carried a toddler out of the line for Pirates and over to a nook next to a trashcan, lifting him up so that he could relieve himself.  Two Cast Members raced over to stop her and pointed her to the nearest restroom.
One of the highlights of the day was in a “ropes course” ride in Adventure Isle.  You get strapped into a harness and then drag along an overheard safety cable as you maneuver through Disney-style caves and rope bridges and rain-slicked cliffs.  It was the most like Indiana Jones I’ve ever felt in my life.  (Xiaohan did not have fun.)
In the afternoon, the rain lightened up and the crowds started to thin out a little.  Then — cleverly hidden in a cart labeled “Savory Snacks” — we found churros!  Shanghai Disneyland truly is a Disneyland after all.My mother always had a special connection with Disneyland, having visited on opening day on July 17, 1955 as a little girl.  Despite the heavy rains and the crowds, I know my mom would have been delighted to see Shanghai Disneyland.  Especially the castle — the largest & tallest of all the Disney parks’ castles — lit up at night.

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Bourgeois 

Going from my business class railroad seats…
…to the sad, anemic (no Diet Coke???) “first class” lounge at the Tianjin airport, I’ve become acutely aware of just how bourgeois my tastes have become.

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Captain

 A Chinese toddler — atop a Chinese tank — wearing a Captain America t-shirt.

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Overlook

I grew suspicious when my Tianjin hotel seemed to have fewer restaurants & bars than its guest information guides had suggested.  I stopped of at a floor with a supposed year-round bar and found this derelict room.  Only reverb-drenched big band music would have completed the horror ambience.

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Tradition II

Tianjin’s “Ancient Culture Street” is a reconstruction of a Qing-era shopping street (but is largely a tourist trap for Chinese visiting the city.)
Many Chinese claim they are not religious, but I’m always struck by how reflexively superstitious almost all of them are.  Whenever I see them lighting incense as shrines or temples, I automatically assume it’s piety, but perhaps it’s just more reflexive cultural motions.

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Boyi

Hungry after visiting the Old Dragon’s Head — and desperate to recharge my phone — I stumbled on a strange restaurant in town called Boyi [sic] Music BBQ Bar of the “crazy crap on the wall” school of decor.  Over a base of faux brass steampunk was a layer of indiscriminate Western accents:  a photo of the Beatles next to a Mississippi license plate next to a poster for Benicio del Toro’s Che.  I was the first customer and I found a half dozen young employees literally lounging in the foyer.

The menu was all in Chinese, but I muddled through.  (Southern license plates aside, the “BBQ” in the name meant grilled meat skewers.)  I ordered a glass of red wine and chaos erupted.  They took a single bottle from the wall of matching wine bottles behind the bar and then fossicked around in drawers until they found a corkscrew.  As I watched two kids try to open the bottle with the wing corkscrew — which they had clearly never used before — I confirmed that I was the first customer to ever order wine.  After several failed attempts, I asked them if I could try (i.e. teach them.)  As I opened it, I said, “魔法!”  (“Magic!”) and they both laughed.

The food started arriving — and was quite good, actually — as other customers started to trickle in.  The staff turned on a giant, floor to ceiling video screen on which they only played J- and K-Pop videos.  AOA’s “Like a Cat” stood out:

An elementary school girl then arrived at my table.  She had been sent over to my table by her parents, as sometimes happens, to practice her English.  “Hi,” she said reluctantly.  Between my waitress’ broken English and my broken Mandarin, the three of us were able to talk long enough to satisfy the girl’s parents and she wandered back to her table after a few minutes.

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Amorous

  

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Danger

  

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Bliss

I took a lonely ride up a sort of ski-lift to the mountains overlooking Shanhaiguan.  The sea falling away behind me, the mountains rising up before me, the Great Wall tracking along to my right, the wind blowing through the pine trees.  It was the single most calm, solitary, peaceful moment I’ve had in China.
I hiked around the mountain paths, finding lakes beyond the mountains and deserted temples.  
I found a broken down network of sky buckets.  Some of them had shattered glass windows.  A powerful post-apocalyptic vision.  
Riding back down the ski-lift, I tracked the Great Wall along the ridgeline to the north.  
  
  Then, looking back from the base of the mountains, I saw the rest of the easternmost line of the Great Wall.

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Hyperbole


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Sunset

As the sun set in the west beyond Shanhai’s mountains, you could still see — faintly in the distance — the silhouette of the Great Wall and its battlements along the ridgeline.  I had to zoom in like crazy, so I apologize for the potato quality.

Here’s a bonus, prettier sunset photo, though.
Finally, I waited for my train back to Tianjin in the tiny Shanhaiguang train station.

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Head

This is the 老龙头 (“Old Dragon’s Head”) where the Great Wall of China dead-ends into the Bohai Sea.
  I enjoyed looking down, right off the edge of Ancient China into the sea.
  
Within the fort was a stone maze representing the eight-sided Taoist baguaFrom afar, you can see the “snout” of the Old Dragon’s Head as it gives way to the docks and cranes and cargo ships stretching eastward out to the Western world.

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Sea

A short walk from the Old Dragon’s Head — and jutting out into the Bohai Sea — is the Sea God Temple.
  

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Pass

This is the Shanhai Pass gate through the Great Wall.  In 1644, a great battle took place here which led to the end of the Ming dynasty and the establishment of the Qing dynasty by the Manchus from north of the wall.

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Ferry

I flew in to Tianjin for the weekend.  The name literally means “Heaven’s ferry” and it’s the fourth most populous city in China, but a lot of people have only ever heard of it from this line from Ocean’s 13:

“Try building something larger than three stories in the Tianjin province, see if his name comes up in your database then.”

It’s not a province.  It’s a National Central City.  But who am I to quibble with Rusty?

I had booked a swanky hotel called Banyan Tree but they were kind enough to give me an upgrade overlooking the river.  It’s well-appointed…I even had trouble fitting the TV and the foyer sculpture in the same shot…
Biggest bonus, however, is this giant circular tub which I not only can fit in but can fit in in an infinite number of directions!

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