Sky

I went to the “Sky Park” high atop the iconic Marina Bay Sands hotel.  Despite being a “Girl Drink Drunk” I had never had a Singapore Sling.  What better place to try my first one than at a bar overlooking Singapore itself?  Some people say it’s too sweet.  I tell those people there’s no such thing.  Then those people say I’m gonna get diabetes.  I tell those people to shut up, I’m trying to enjoy a cocktail.

This is the famous Singapore Flyer Ferris wheel.  I didn’t get a chance to ride it, unfortunately, because it was entirely inaccessible.  I had inadvertently planned my Singapore trip the weekend of the Singapore Grand Prix.  (Which, I’m told by car people, is a good one because of the “tight turns”.)

This is looking down on the “supertrees” at the Gardens by the Bay.
The far dome is a conservatory called the Cloud Forest.  The nearer dome is a conservatory with a bunch of flowers or some crap.

Posted in 新加坡 | Tagged | 1 Comment

Chomp

Singapore is famous for its street food.  And by “street food” I mean clean, well-regulated and inspected food shops clustered in specially-designated areas of the city.  (William Gibson didn’t title his 1993 article on Singapore “Disneyland with the Death Penalty” for nothing.  It’s an authoritarian, if benevolent, city-state.)

After I narrowly escaped being devoured by compies, I decided to visit the Chomp Chomp Food Centre.
This was the little shop where I ordered a mix of a dozen chicken, pork, and lamb satay skewers.  Delicious and cheap. 

Posted in 新加坡 | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Safari

One of the highlights of Singapore for me was the Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo.  There is both a tram ride and several winding walking paths to explore.

Be forewarned:  what follows is some of the worst wildlife photography you have ever seen.  The fault lies entirely with me and not with the animals.  The animals were all photogenic & cooperative, except for the giraffe who was a stupid jerk.

This was a picture of a deer I took from the moving tram.

I think this was a tapir.  Again, from a moving tram.   
Partially-occluded rhinoceros.  Yet again from a moving tram.
Look, the tram was fun but the photography wasn’t working.  Partly because the affable Malaysian tourist who sat next to me looked and sounded exactly like Wicket the Ewok.  Buck teeth, round belly, squat limbs, high-pitched musical voice, everything.  It was very distracting.

I had better luck on the walking trails.  Here is a flying squirrel.  Shown not flying.
This was a mock cave which reminded me quite a bit of the old Injun Joe’s cave on Tom Sawyer’s Island in Disneyland.

Here we see a wallaby. 
Here’s that stupid giraffe, hiding behind those trees and trying to blend in.  I see you, asshole.

The moon was haunting, so I took several cheesy pictures for no particular reason. 
  
The zoo has a cage where fruit bats fly around freely.  I never really got the “fear” theme from Batman Begins, but being in that cage — even just with harmless fruit bats — was such an unnerving experience that I think I’m starting to get it.  Bats are flying nightmares.  Here’s a bat hanging from the top of the cage, silhouetted against the moon.

And here we have a porcupine.  Obviously. 
I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to take a photo of a leopard.  This is what I got…
Wait, slow down.  Here he comes.
One more try.  Hey, could you slow down…
Goddamn it.  This one is just straight-up out of focus!
There.  Best one I got.  Enjoy. 
See those tiny face looking up at me?  Those are tiny otters.  And there were, like, dozens of them.  And they were all SCREAMING this HIGH-PITCHED SCREAM.  They looked and sounded and acted exactly like Procompsognathids from Jurassic Park.I know better than to let my guard down around “compies” so I bolted for the exit.

Posted in 新加坡 | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Irving

A cute lion because this is the Lion City.  And Washington Irving’s ties to Singapore are so obvious that they require no explanation, of course.

Posted in 新加坡 | Leave a comment

Canning

A short walk from the National Museum is a small hill called Fort Canning with a sweeping view of the channel and the nearby islands.  For some reason, it reminded me of Copp’s Hill in Boston.  But far more tropical and militarized.

Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles was the British statesmen who founded Her Majesty’s colony in Singapore.  (Lots of places and streets are named after him.  Despite the fact that “Raffles” sounds like the name of a hobo’s dog.)  When he was ailing, Raffles had a smallish home built on the top of the hill, saying in a letter to a friend that “though the height is inconsiderable, we find a great difference in climate.”IMG_1608.JPGI can’t begin to imagine trying to live in this tropical climate without air conditioning.  It sounds like my own personal vision of Hell.  (A lot like other people’s vision of Hell, just more humid.)

Posted in 新加坡 | Leave a comment

Cleopatra

Visited the excellent National Museum of Singapore.
Like so much of the British influence in this part of the world, it bears the mark of Queen Victoria.  Rotunda?  More like So-so-tunda.  Okay, not my best.  Let me workshop that one.
This is the Singapore Stone dating from the 13th (or as early as the 10th) century.  The curator told us the inscription was written in Old Javenese or possibly Sanskrit but remains largely undeciphered.

Its cultural significance can’t be overstated.  For such a young country (dating only from 1965!) its important to have a touchstone (not literally) that they can point to (sometimes literally) and say, “See?  We’ve been here a long, long time!”My favorite part of the museum was this section on “amusements” that was built like a drive-in movie theater with cut out car facades as seats.
Um, how am I just now discovering now discovering Southeast Asian exploitation flick heroine Cleopatra Wong?  (Hypothesis:  if your title contains the name “Cleopatra” you are either intentionally or unintentionally making an exploitation flick.)There was a harrowing section of the museum dedicated to the Japanese invasion and occupation of Singapore during World War II.  It was all chilling, but I found the desperation to eat durian seeds particularly haunting.

Posted in 新加坡 | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Lions

It is said that the founder of Singapore saw a lion here and, so, named the place Singapura (“lion city” in Malay.)  But it was probably a Malayan tiger he saw because there’s zero evidence lions ever lived here.

Regardless, I arrived in the Lion City.  My hotel was on a street named Mount Elizabeth.  I named it after my sister even though there’s zero evidence Elizabeth ever lived here.
Stayed at the boutique Quincy Hotel.Cozy.
This was the view out my window.When chatting with my friends who now live in Singapore, I described it uncharitably as “like Hong Kong with all the interesting parts ripped out.”

Posted in 新加坡 | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Sports

My Mandarin teacher and her husband lived in Japan for several years as he studied at a university.  Their daughter is in second grade now and attend the Shanghai Japanese School, an elementary school which teaches classes entirely in Japanese.  I was invited to attend the school’s 3oth anniversary 运动会.  The day alternates between sporting events and elaborate dance numbers.

And anyone who knows me well knows how much I love sports.

Note the faces (Earth, panda, cat, etc.) hanging on the banner over the entrance.  They came back to haunt me later.
Each grade, 1st through 6th, got to design their own t-shirt.  This is the 2nd grader’s shirt which skirts international copyright laws.  One of the other grades tried a little too hard with their English slogan.
For the opening ceremony, all 1300 students gathered on the field.  Half of each grades’ class was assigned to the White Team and the other half was assigned to the Red Team.  The wore baseball caps (with chin straps) to identify which team they belonged to.  At the end of the day, the total of each event determined which team won overall.  Instead of “cheerleaders” each team had a crew of pseudo-samurai and drummers which would rally their team.  (I was immediately struck by the enthusiasm of the White Team’s cheers — and the quality of their drummers — that the White Team was destined to win the day.)
All of the students did a serious of stretches & calisthenics to the tune of “Hey Mickey”.  (I couldn’t help but note that this was the same song that the girls at the Hooters by work dance to.)  The first of the competitions was this wacky game where six students would be randomly assigned to a line with some sort of obstacle:  somersault, balance beam, vault, hurdle, running back and forth between two cones, or a just running straight.  There were many train wrecks.  (Later in the day, however, when the first graders attempted a tamer version of the same event, it was ridiculously cute.)
Here are some kids running out onto the field to the tune of Disney’s “Main Str. Electrical Parade.”  The second graders were divided into four quadrants, two per team.  They attempted to throw their color’s sock puppet things across the the competing teams and clear their competitors sock puppets from theirs.  The sock puppets were then weighed, determining the winner.
An older grade gave an elaborate Japanese martial arts-inflected performance.  In a variation of “chicken fighting” that we’d play in pools back in So Cal, teams would lift one team member up and they would try to remove their competitors’ caps.  I referred to this game as “De-cap-itation” but my Mandarin teacher didn’t laugh.
I thought this opening to a dance number looked like the aftermath of some cult happening, but I decided not to tell my Mandarin teacher.  Luckily, they all jumped up and started waving flags around.
It was hard to capture this event:  hundreds of students in a giant tug-of-war.  The 2nd graders did a charming, if loosely choreographed, dance with flags.
For the “halftime show” there were Japanese-style mascots for each grade dancing.  I couldn’t help of think of John Oliver’s Last Week Tonight segment.  Okay, this one flat out looked like a marijuana leaf.  My Mandarin teacher claimed that she thought it was “kelp” but I’m not buying it.
One grade’s sporting event was trying to throw balls into a basket.  They all sucked, but it was adorable.  Another grade’s event was flipping over circles to match their team’s color, like some hastily-designed version of the board game Othello.
This musical number with drums was pretty good.  In yet another variation of the “pillage your competitor’s resources” game, this one involved dragging a long pole to each team’s side.
One grade’s performance was series of elaborate yoga & acrobatic moves.  This one is called the “Human Centipede.”  I assumed.
Overall, it was quite impressive.  At the end of the day, I was proven wrong and the Red Team narrowly defeated the White Team.  The Red Team marked their victory by leaving my white skin badly sunburned.  (Yes, I wore sunblock.  Yes, I reapplied.)
I was truly impressed by the amount of work all of the students devoted to all their competitions and performances.  And I didn’t see a single student cry — from injury or disappointment — all day.  Truly impressed.

Posted in 上海 | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Photogenic

I continue to be impressed by how graphically interesting Shanghai is from every angle.

Posted in 上海 | Leave a comment

West

On the plane flying north from Wellington to Aukland to catch my flight back to Shanghai, I caught this pic of the sun setting in the west, out toward Australia.

Posted in Aukland | Leave a comment

Shift

Okay, there’s this weird thing that happened in the history of the English language called the Great Vowel Shift.  It’s the reason English pronounces vowels differently than all the other European languages.  (It’s also the reason in Shakespeare plays where he uses one pronunciation of a word to rhyme with something in one line and then uses a different pronunciation of the same word to rhyme differently in a later line.  The shift was just ending in Elizabethan times and vowel pronunciations were still unstable.)

It’s almost like that process just kept going in New Zealand.  The “a” and “i” and “e” are even farther forward in the mouth than an English, let alone Continental languages.  (Thus the “airbag” confusion.)

I was slightly shocked how often I had to ask Kiwis to repeat themselves just so I could parse their accent.

 

Posted in Wellington | Tagged | Leave a comment

Gallipoli

There was a superlative exhibit on World War I’s battle of Gallipoli at Te Papa.  Each “room” of the exhibit was dedicated to story of someone connected to the war.  The Weta workshop crafted giant oversized statues of each war hero.  They worked off of still lifes from the era, but out of respect for the dead, used the faces of Weta employees who liked similar (in some cases eerily similar) to the heroes.
The young guy who gave us the tour of the Weta shop told us a story about this nurse statue.  The face was modelled on a particular Weta employee but another Weta employee spent months carving every curve, every line of her face.  The two have since married, which I think is beautiful.

It says a lot about where I was emotionally on my vacation to New Zealand that this placard toward the end of the exhibit instantly made me think of going back to work.

Posted in Wellington | 1 Comment

Palace

The Embassy is the Wellington movie palace where all of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit films premiered.
I loved the decor, especially the hallway leading down to the bar area.  The seats & service were much like an iPic theater.  Makes me wonder if I would have liked Jason Bourne even less if I had seen it in a less impressive venue.

Posted in Wellington | Tagged | Leave a comment

Ugly

Peter Jackson named his FX company after a truly hideous indigenous New Zealand insect called a “weta” (which a Maori word meaning “ugly”.)

Had a chance to go to the Weta Cave and a tour of their shop.
Photos weren’t permitted, but I especially loved seeing a full-size prototype of a much more organic version of the exoskeleton from the battle at the end of District 9.  And swords, of course.  Lots and lots of swords.

Posted in Wellington | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Shire II

Nerded out and took a tour of Wellington film location for The Fellowship of the Rings.  Here on Mt. Victoria is the road where the four hobbits come tumbling down the slope out of Farm Maggot’s crop.
And the spot where (under an oversized prop tree) they hid from the Nazgûl.  And this was the road Frodo looks down for the dolly-counter zoom shot.

Posted in Wellington | Tagged | Leave a comment