Dickensian

 The term “shitbox” is thrown around all too often these days.

Datong is a shitbox.

Situated up by Inner Mongolia in the far north of the Shānxī province (not the Shǎnxī province, which is entirely different as I’ve explained), the city of Dàtóng is a coal mining town which Debbie’s usually upbeat travel guide describes as “gritty, polluted, and ugly.”  What a lonely planet, indeed.

China ranks their cities in a four tier system.  Datong is the first Tier 3 city I’ve had a chance to visit.  The airport was slightly smaller than my elementary school.  It was literally freezing when we arrived, with dirty snow hardened on the sides of the roads.  In the half hour taxi ride from the airport to our hotel, the taxi driver exhausted my entire Mandarin vocabulary:

“We want to go to the Tiangui International Hotel.  100RMB?  I don’t know if that’s okay.  That could be very expensive.  But we are very cold, so just go.  We are from Los Angeles, so we think this is very cold.  Sorry, my Mandarin is not good.  My tones are not good.  Yes, we are here to see the Hanging Temple.  400RMB to drive us tomorrow?  I’m not sure.  I must talk to my friend.  350RMB?  Let me ask my friend.  She is very clever.  I am not clever.  She says 300RMB.  300RMB?  Okay.  How far is it from our hotel to the Hanging Temple?  How many minutes?  90 minutes?  What time is a good time to go?  In the morning, yes.  9am?  Okay.  And then only 20 minutes to Hengshan?  Is the mountain very close to the temple?  Oh, it is.  I understand.  And you think we have time to also do the Yungang Grottoes tomorrow?  Yes, Buddhists.  Yes, many statues of Buddha.  We looked at a map.  They seem far from the temple.  We will decide tomorrow.  These buildings are all very tall.  Are you from Datong?  Ah.  When you were a child, did they have these buildings?  So they are new buildings.  Are they homes or hotels?  I see, many tourists.  Which one is our hotel?  Oh, we can’t see it yet?  Hey, what is that building ahead?  The ancient capital?  Interesting.  It looks like Xi’an.  Yes, I have been to Xi’an!  My friend has not, but we are going on Wednesday.  And then to Chengdu.  My phone number?  Let me get my Chinese cell phone.  That’s my number.  ‘Wei?’  Good.  Okay, meet you tomorrow, here at 9am.  My name is David.  What is your name?  Nice to meet you.  See you tomorow.”  (David collapses.)

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Cuisine

Despite the gauche design of an 80s Trump hotel, the absolute best thing about the place Debbie & I are staying in Datong is their dinner menu.  Mangled translation of Asian dishes is a cliche, granted, but some of these are just spectacular.  Please consider all of the following as having a sic after them with capitalization preserved:

  • Put the pot buckwheat noodles
  • Sliced
  • Sip traditional stereotyped
  • Sip traditional lentil surface
  • Bacon fire
  • Features wrapped in bacon
  • Boss with dumpling
  • Grasping cake
  • Bullfrog signs
  • Boiled emerald tablets
  • Jade meter
  • Braised woman Participation
  • Sand nest chicken wings
  • Round and round
  • You face cap mushroom broth
  • Braised yellow flesh Participation
  • Homemade cattle bones
  • Beijing Sauce wire
  • Salty burning white
  • Spicy palm-sized
  • Western bandits meat
  • Water melon milk radish
  • Mountain old man tapas
  • Brine mouth Article
  • Sashimi Larry
  • Rotten pickles mashed potatoes
  • Arctic Bay salmon sashimi fight
  • Homemade skin cold
  • Warm Mix with eight
  • Featured pig hand
  • Grass carp bubble cake
  • Days of your small Pork
  • Salty soil brittle hair Rouchao
  • Pepper Cowboys tablets
  • Waist liver fried together
  • Ma temptation
  • Drunk crisp flesh fish
  • Wild fish wealth
  • Corn high voltage reference
  • Marked chicken gizzards
  • Germany elbow flowers
  • Prairie belly fishing juice
  • Secret saliva chicken
  • Nourishing donkey
  • Casserole high voltage reference
  • Potatoes hyperbaric Participation
  • Lamb melon high pressure parameters
  • Red mushroom high voltage reference
  • High voltage reference juice
  • High pressure sour Participation
  • Ordinary duck

Would you expect anything less from a restaurant with the slogan “With Concise But not Simple Style”?

For the record, all of the food, names notwithstanding, tasted absolutely delicious.

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Grottoes


The Yungang Grottoes just northwest of Datong are a series of dozens of  caves carved into the rocky hillside, each with Buddha statues inside.  Some of the statues are a couple of stories tall.

Others are only a couple of inches tall, like these thousands of Buddhas covering the walls of this cave from floor to ceiling.

I like this wood-covered statue of a god with his wooden belly rotted through revealing his stone innards underneath.

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Floating

The Hanging Temple (悬空寺 or Xuánkōng Sì, literally meaning “floating-in-empty temple”) near Datong is magnificent.  I’m certain it was one of the inspirations for the Western Air Temple in Avatar: The Last Airbender.

Just steps upriver from the temple is a dam and a cavernous bypass channel which debouches into a lake.
All frozen, thank Eru, lest the Watcher in the Water were to try to fuck with me and my mellon.  (Pardon my Sindarin.)

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Convenience

 Like novelty underwear, the floor rugs in the elevator at the hotel Debbie & I are staying at change every day.

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Halt

 “The Tourist Halts,” indeed.

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Revelation

 “And, lo, the pidgin shall stand atop the phoenix and the Twizzler shall lie down with the Red Vine.  So ye shall know the end of days is nigh.”

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Aureate

In the impressive approach to the Yungang Grottoes lies this tree with leaves made of gold.  I assume it sprouted from the soil where a golden coin fell when Narnia was young.

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Hengshan

In the mountains an hour’s drive east of Datong is a long tunnel through the rock, choked with the heat & exhaust fumes of dozens of  monstrous trucks hauling goods & materials toward Beijing.  Because all roads lead to Beijing.

My few minutes riding through that tunnel are as close to Hell as I’ve ever been.  Harrowing as it was, the taxi driver was our Virgil and saw us through.

We arrived at the base of Hengshan, one of the Five Great Mountains of China.

There’s supposed to be a gondola that takes you to the summit.  The guys at the ticket booth said the gondola was closed because of the snow.  We didn’t see any snow.  We turned around and started driving back down the mountain.

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Disgruntled

Why does this elephant look so annoyed?  Some possibilities…

  • Because he was born with triple tusks.
  • Because snow is melting on his head.
  • Because a tiny person is tickling his belly.

The artist’s intent, however, is lost to history.

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Hero

 For me, this was the highlight of Debbie & my visit to the Jackie Chan Film Museum.  “You are my hero.”

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Misleading

Shouldn’t a poem written in “rain and drunkness” be splotchy with progressively sloppier penmanship?

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Particulates IV

My living room & bedroom air filters — front and back — after four months.
Previous air filter check ins herehere, and here.

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Blind

 A statue of a god at the Confucian Temple in Shanghai had me humming a song from this band.

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Mountains

 To my eye, these rocks on a table at the Confucian Temple in Shanghai look like the distant mountains in a shansui painting.

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