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Monthly Archives: December 2016
Angeli
As a native Angelino, I felt that I ought to have a special connection with Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. The place is almost unrelentingly ornate. I found this stained glass cupola of the night sky particularly … Continue reading
Ininterrotto
The Pantheon is amazingly well-preserved compared to the other ancient ruins in Rome. (For many of the ancient sites, I hear Indiana Jones’ voice in my head muttering “the general poor condition of the find.”) The secret of its preservation … Continue reading
Fora
Crowded near the Altare della Patria and the Roman Forum are the ruins of several emperors’ fora. This is Trajan’s column and the ruins of Trajan’s forum. Statue of Trajan. The Forum of Nerva was begun by Domition but … Continue reading
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Padre II
Lying between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill — and towering over the ruins of the Roman Forum — is the Altare della Patria. It commemorates Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy. (No mean feat.)This … Continue reading
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Vicolo
Travestere is a charming neighborhood just west of the Tiber and south of Vatican City. It had a real sense of Old World charm (or, at minimum, and Imagineered sense of Old World charm.) Like San Sebastiano, here is yet … Continue reading
Ponte
An abandoned chunk of a bridge that once crossed the river Tiber. This, the only island in the Tiber, was once the location of an ancient temple to Aesculapius, the Greek god of medicine.
Cripta
The Basilica of Saint Mary of Cosmedin — the portico of which is home to the Bocca della Verità — was built on the ancient Forum Boarium. Beneath the church lies “Hadrian’s crypt”. (Not the emperor. The name of the … Continue reading
Bocca
The famous Bocca della Verità as immortalized in Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. (Or Only You with Marisa Tomei and Robert Downey, Jr. If you’re a philistine.) Putting my hand in the mouth, all I could think … Continue reading
Elefante
Another fucking obelisk. This time with an elephant in the Piazza della Minerva. (“The Elephant & Obelisk” sounds like a particularly hoity-toity pub name.)
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Circo
This is what remains of the Circus Maximus, nestled between the Aventine and Palantine Hills. Little more than a dog park now.
Catacomba
The interplay between Roman history, pagan, and Christian belief is seen throughout Rome. The catacombs of San Sebastiano are a good example. Now, we all now from Sandman #55 “Cerements” by Neil Gaiman that there are five methods of burial: … Continue reading
Via
The Via Appia, looking from Rome out through the Porta Appia to the wide world beyond.I imagined embarking on a journey along this road. Heading south, toward the Mediterranean. Boarding a ship for the Levantine. Crossing the Silk Road as it spans … Continue reading
Porta II
Porta San Sebastiano was the gate I was looking for. This was the old Porta Appia which stood astride the Via Appia (“Appian Way”), the most famous and important of the Roman roads.The gate is about as wide as a … Continue reading