Governor

The crown’s representative in the colony, the Governor, lived in a lavish mansion skirtted by rivers and flower gardens.Three saucy women in the cooking house talked about all the ingredients & recipes of the era.I was particularly interested in the various flavors of “ketchup”.As good a map as they had for the time.When most people had wood or dirt floors, the Governor’s mansion was tiled with marble.The entrance hall was decorated, floor to ceiling, with weapons.  To, you know, establish a tone.More weapons in the stairwell.The Governor’s newborn “decorated” the Lady’s sitting room, to be shown off.  When the baby got fussy, she would be spirited off to another room by a nanny.Dining room.Walking between royal portraits of William & Mary into the dance hall.The garden reinforced the sense that this was a mini-Versailles carved out of the wilderness.

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Cooper

I spent a long, long, long time peppering the cooper with questions.  Howlongdoesittaketomakeabarrel?  Whatkindsofwooddoyouuse?  Whydobeerandalehavedifferentunitsofmeasurement?  Arethesewatertight?  Isthatoneoverthereahogsheadoratun?Worth it.

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Patriot

I saw that there was an axe-throwing range.  It cost an additional $10 ticket for a half-hour class.  I hurried to one of the ticket shops and asked for one.

“At what time?”
“As soon as possible,” I replied.
“That would be 10:30.  Oh, but no one else is signed up for that one.  You’d be the only one.  Is that okay?”
“Yes.  Yes, that is okay.  That is most definitely okay.”

My private axe-throwing class started with a brief history of this kind of axe (worn by British troops as a tool) and how there is no record of one ever being thrown in combat.

“Like, have you ever seen the movie The Patriot?”
“Yes.  Yes, I have.  I have seen the movie The Patriot.”
“Yeah, it’s not like that.”

I started with my left hand.  Overshot the first throw.  Undershot the second throw.  Didn’t miss another throw with my left after that.  The instructor challenged me to switch hands.  (“I’m not left handed!”)  Missed the first throw and didn’t miss another throw after that.

The instructors & I started chit-chatting while I kept throwing.   They told me that there are “axe-throwing bars” in the South where they throw axes instead of darts.

I asked one instructor how often they sharpened the axes.  He told me they aren’t sharp at all.  I ran my hand over the edge easily.  Apparently the wood of the target is so soft that the weight and velocity of the axe does all the work.

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Colonial

I had heard that Colonial Williamsburg was really only interesting “for kids”.  I think what they meant was it’s really only interesting “for curious people” because I loved the whole thing.It’s different than I had expected in that, other than blocked to modern traffic, the town itself is open to the public to walk through.  In the morning,  I saw at least a dozen neighbors taking their walks like they would in the suburbs at malls before the stores are open.  Tickets (worn as badges) are required for entrance into the buildings themselves to see and talk to in-character performers around town.On the “outskirts” of town (on the walk from the visitors center & parking lot to the town itself) there is a replica of a tobacco plantation.This was the colony’s capital building, built in an “H” shape.Locally-elected representatives had a chamber on one side of the “H”……while crown-approved aristocrats had a fancier chamber on the other side of the “H”……with a room in the crossbar of the “H” where the two sides could hammer out disagreements.The court room.The public jail (where pirates had been held!)Looking out the window from the second story of a pub.Until disestablishment, membership in the Episcopal church was required for things like voting rights.  Presbyterians didn’t have churches, but “meeting houses”.

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Crater

The Union hoped to end the Civil War by taking Richmond, but the Confederacy kept holding them off.  The two armies eventually dug trenches facing each other south of Richmond in the town of Petersburg.  (Military historians say that often times particular tactics employed late in one war presage what tactics will dominate in later wars.  The Siege of Petersburg foreshadowed the trench warfare of World War I.)

Attempting to break the deadlock, the Union used Pennsylvania coal miners to dig a tunnel under the Confederate lines which they then packed with explosives and detonated.  The contours of the resulting crater can still be seen today.But the North squandered their advantage and the entire effort was a “stupendous failure”.The horror of the Battle of the Crater was (loosely) depicted in the Anthony Minghella film Cold Mountain:

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Witness

This is the Old Appomattox Court House at Appomattox Court House.  (Yes, Appomattox Court House is the full name of the village, named after, well, the courthouse.)  The entire town has been reconstructed as it looked when the Civil War ended with the courthouse now serving as the National Park’s visitors center.

Looking west down the street through the middle of town, toward the train line and Appomattox Station.This is a reconstruction of the McLean House where the surrender was signed.A painting of the historic moment.A reconstruction of the room.  Lee got the fancier desk as he was the first to arrive.A small doll “observed” the signing while resting on a chair in the room.  Officers began to joke about it being the “silent witness” to an historic moment.Looking eastward down the road where the Confederate troops all surrendered their arms, stacking in their bayonets as tripods.And who oversaw the solemn surrender of arms?  My man Joshua Chamberlain!  The museum even has his boots.

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Equal

Visited Thomas Jefferson’s home Monticello.  The name means “little hill” in Italian and Jefferson chose to build it at the top of a hill overlooking his plantation.  A hill with no water supply.  But why worry about that when you own slaves who can constantly be dragging buckets of water or ice up from the river at the bottom of the hill, right?The obelisk over Jefferson’s grave is notable for the pointed omission of being President from his list of what he considered his most important accomplishments.  The tree-covered slopes of Monticello.

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Raven

My friend Lisa toured me around the beautiful grounds of the University of Virginia.  My favorite part was this reconstruction of Edgar Allan Poe‘s spartan room from when he was a student.  It is maintained by the Raven Society (which, I’m just deciding now, is also the name of my new goth band.)

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Rosy

A Homeric dawn as seen from my hotel room in Charlottesville.

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Infamous

Saw the infamous Robert E. Lee statue in Charlottesville.  Fuck this guy and the horse he road in on.

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Panel

Recently, I reconnected with my old friend Lisa Jakub via Twitter.  I had the chance to see her talk about her new book on a panel at the Virginia Festival of the Book [sic].

Heading to the panel, I happened to walk past a book by one of my other favorite authors on Twitter, Elizabeth May.

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Wonderland III

Beat the nor’easter inland and woke up to this scene outside my window in Charlottesville the next morning.

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Outrun

After visiting New Castle, I had the bright idea to drive down the coast of Maryland to get to Virginia.  Only midway did I realize that a nor’easter was approaching.  I drove much later than I usually do in order to cross the 23 mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel before the rains hit.

Spent the night in at a charming resort in Virginia Beach, all but empty during the off season.

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Landfall

According to the researcher at the Cecil County Historical Society, most of the Ulster Scots landed here in New Castle, Delaware.  (Although some ships came through Philadelphia.)  She also told me that New Castle had been a contender to be the colonial attraction that eventually went to Williamsburg instead.The Youngs may have docked here and set foot in the New World for the first time.

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Cold

From Los Angeles to Idaho to Iowa to Pennsylvania, I finally traced the Young family back to Cecil County, Maryland.  But here the trail went cold.

I found myself in Elkton, Maryland.  The town had originally been named Head of Elk as it was at the head of the Elk River.  Spent a few hours at the Cecil County Historical Society, but wasn’t able to disentangle the overlapping Young families.  The volunteer researcher I talked to also said that the Presbyterians were “poor record keepers” and that most of the church records from the colonial period had been lost in a fire.

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