Haze

Overlooking a pontoon bridge out into the Yangtze while the sun sets behind the mountains.  Terrible photo.  Why did I even save it?  I suck.

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White

We docked just upriver from the Kuimen Gate.

Baidicheng — the White Emperor City, famous since the Three Kingdoms period — was originally on a peninsula until the higher water level made it an island.

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Ten

The third of the Three Gorges — and the most impressive — is the Qutang Gorge.
  
  Yet more Tujia hanging coffins.
  
  
Looking back at the (redudantly named) Kuimen Gate…
…a picture of which can be seen on the back of China’s ten Renminbi note. 

 

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Span

A bridge across Yangtze.  The scales involved here are difficult to communicate.

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Wu

We sailed through the second of the Three Gorges:  the Wu Gorge.
  
This mountaintop is known as the Goddess Peak.  
  
  

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Creek

The name of this tributary to the Yangtze is 神农溪 (Shénnóng Xī) and the fact that 溪 (xī) means “creek” is an indication of just how much the rising water level caused by the Three Gorges Dam has deepened and widened all waterways upriver.More Tujia hanging coffins.



  I can’t imagine carving names into U.S. National Monuments (but then I remember Mount Rushmore and I can’t really give the Chinese any shit.)
This peak is the tallest and made me think of El Capitan in Yosemite.  
Staggering to imagine how tall these mountains must have looked before the water level rose a hundred meters because of the dam.
  This cave — full of swallow nests — is aptly named Swallow Cave.  Which is why I’m calling this part of my trip “Gorge and Swallow.”  (Sorry, sorry, I’ll see myself out…)
I was told the cave goes back 5 miles.The Yichang-Chongqing stretch of the Shanghai-Chongqing Expressway was completed by means of this insane bridge.  I was told that the expressway cost $16 million per kilometer through these mountains.
  
More official graffiti.  
More hanging coffins.  
  
I was fascinated by how much soil was nestled in the nooks & crannies of these mountains.  Thousands of years of trees & plants clawing their way into the stone, living and then dying so that other plants could find purchase.  

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Shanshui VI

We set sail up the Yangtze.  I stood on my lonely balcony with the wind blowing and row after row of mountains receding into the distance, sailing into a real life shanshui painting.

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Flutists

First of the cruise‘s shore excursions was south of the Three Gorges Dam to a “village” of the Tujia people (eighth largest of China’s fifty plus ethnic minorities.)  I was particularly intrigued because their name written in Chinese is 土家 which literally translates to “Earth family.”

These two Tujia are acting out a boy on shore playing a flute to woo a girl standing on a boat.
The playacting and the set design reminded me of the Moari village experience I went to in New Zealand.  Nestled between the steep mountains, the land was truly beautiful.
These are (supposedly) cormorants trained to hunt fish for the Tujia, as seen in BBC’s Wild China series.Something tells me this laundry never actually gets clean.
Boy wooing a girl with a flute on a bridge.  I feel like the Tujia have some sort of flute-based mating pattern.
And now, beloved readers, more of my famous terrible wildlife photography!  Macaques with motion blur!  First up, a play in three acts:

Act IAct II
Act III

Baby macaque, nestled in bamboo so no one steals its food.
  
  
  Once again, I’ve found myself chasing waterfalls.
  The Tujia bury their honored dead by placing them in “hanging coffins,” caskets in nooks & caves high up the valley walls (well above any rising floodwaters.)  An idiosyncratic mix of sky & earth burial.
Finally, one of the Americans from the cruise ship’s tour group was picked to reenact a traditional Tujia wedding ceremony.  
In front of the Tujia village stands a huge statue of a geologist of some importance to the area.  Naturally.

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Bully


Looking down at the locks along side of the Three Gorges Dam.  There are usually two “lanes” of locks, one for upstream and one for downstream.However, one lane was dry for regular maintenance.
There are usually five locks, but when the water behind the dam is at its lowest level only four are needed.
Watching this long ship making its way up the locks, I couldn’t help but think of how impressed Teddy Roosevelt would have been if he had had the chance to see them.

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Displacement

 

Sometimes the scale of things in China is astonishing.  Like the stuff of science fiction.  The Three Gorges Dam is one such example.

32 hydroelectric turbines, a series of five locks, plus an elevator which can lift a boat in nine minutes.All together, the thing looks like the fucking Death Star.This huge pyramid is an example of what was sunk at the bottom of the Yangtze
I found this statue representing the river itself rather grotesque.  The red and white line across this painting represents where the bridge stands now, across the Xiling Gorge (the first of the Three Gorges.)  An epic panorama of the nearby mountains.  The back of the dam, receding into the mist.
Although not the tallest or widest dam in the world, building of the dam was the single biggest dam project in history.  The ostensible goals were threefold:

  1. Power generation
  2. Improved navigation
  3. Flood control

However, because of the rising water levels behind the dam, 1.3 million people had to be relocated to higher ground and countless ancient Chinese sites were flooded.

It’s interesting to note that Dr. Sun Yat-sen who first suggested building a dam across the Yangtze back in 1919.

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Library

I brought four books to reread on my cruise.

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Megatall V

Once again, I think all those years of ducking practice will come in handy.

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Stateroom

This cruise through the Three Gorges was the gift I gave myself for completing my ODW tour of duty.  I bought out one of the ship’s two spacious “Shangri-La Suites.”
A bathtub on a ship?  Decadent!  (I didn’t use it.  Felt too guilty.)  
Awww.  Origami towels in the shape of kissing swans?  Romantic!  (I pretended to wring their necks.)The room came with a decent bottle of French wine, too.But the real reason I splurged on the Shangri-La Suite was the private balcony that faced forward off the bow of the ship.

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Sketchy

The winter cruise terminal felt like a location in a John Carpenter movie.

The Victoria Anna holds around 300 guests, considerably smaller than the cruise ships I went on with my grandmother and the Youngs when I was a teenager.

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Li

In 2009, I saw an exhibit at the Huntington Library in Pasadena where they had unfurled the full length of a Qing era scroll by an artists named Wang Hui entitled Ten Thousand Li Up the Yangtze.

“Li” is an old Chinese unit measuring about a third of an English mile, “ten thousand” is poetic Chinese for “a lot” and “Yangtze” is the Western name for the river which the Chinese simply call 长江 (Chángjiāng meaning “Long River.”)

I pored over every inch of the 53 foot scroll, from where the river debouches into the East China Sea at Shanghai, up through the Three Gorges, and upriver all the way to its headwaters in Tibet.

Ever since seeing that scroll, I’ve been obsessed with sailing up the Yangtze myself.

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