Bourgeois IV

Over the last two years, I’ve spent many, many hours in this airport lounge in Xi’an.  Good times, good times.

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Bleak

I need to spend a single night at the airport hotel in Ürümqi before catching my morning flight back to Xi’an and thence to Shanghai.  The hotel was massive, the surveillance ubiquitous, and the architecture distinctly Sino-Authoritarian.  Looking out my window at the snow-covered rooftops toward the airport, I thought to myself “In Soviet Union, hotel check into YOU!”

The hotel had theoretical in-room “dinging” but I went down to the (supposedly Western) restaurant.  Because of Chinese New Year, they had a very, very, very short menu of Chinese fare (written entirely in Chinese.)  The food was gross but I didn’t starve.
I thought of an easy mnemonic for remembering my room number.  

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Bourgeois III

Security at the Kashgar airport was insane.  To get into the ticketing area, you had to show ID and undergo the most thorough pat-down I’ve ever been subjected to.  Crazy long lines, stretching outside into the freezing cold.  Then another security checkpoint to get to the boarding gates.

The first class lounge, however, was desolate.  And bereft of refreshments.

 

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Juxtaposition

I thought this image from Kashi was telling:  remnants of the city’s ancient wall, surrounded by razor wire and with a surveillance camera perched on top.

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Common

Ah.  A hospital for “common people” rather than, say, Cedars-Sinai.

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Apples

“Chiken” is “chicken,” I assume.  But wait, do they feed the apples to the chicken?  Is it like food for chickens or is it human food that’s a mix of apples & chicken but with double the amount of expected apples or something?  I’m so confused.  (No, the Chinese doesn’t clarify anything.)

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Fashion

Throughout Asia, I’ve seen some pretty absurd things written in English on clothes.  Misspellings.  Mangled grammar.  Embarrassingly unintended vulgarities.  But I have a real about not taking pictures of people without their permission and I’m always reluctant to ask people if I can take a picture just so I can make fun of their clothes.

But when I saw this kid’s Vine-infected fashion choice, I broke my own rule and shot him from behind like a black hat cowboy.  He had it coming.

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Silk III

IMG_2696.JPGRemember this thing?  The Colosseum tchotchke I bought in Rome?  The one made in China?

I had an idea.  I brought the mini-Colosseum with me to Xinjiang.

Now, I think of myself as a Romantic.  And I do things other people wouldn’t do or wouldn’t think to do or wouldn’t want to do.  When I was, like, thirteen I was going to see the Atlantic ocean for the first time.  So, I made sure to go to the beach before our trip, collected some Pacific ocean water in a Tupperware container, flew it across country, and dumped it into the Atlantic ocean.  Just because.  Because that’s the kind of thing I do.

I found these camel wool socks which I thought were particularly appropriate for the market at the middle of the Silk Road.I haggled in Mandarin with the kid at the stall, throwing in the Chinese-made Roman souvenir as part of my purchase price.  Making that East-West connection.
Just because.  Because that’s the kind of thing I do.

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Livestock

The farther away from the cosmopolitan center of Shanghai and the deeper into the remote parts of China that I venture, the more I have to rely on my Mandarin.  But sometimes, my Mandarin fails me.

This was such a case.

For millennia, trading livestock was part of Kashgar’s Sunday Market.  But the herding of cattle and sheep and camels and horses into the middle of the city every weekend wrecked havoc so, in 2007, they relocated the livestock part of the bazaar 10 kilometers to the northwest of the city, leaving the rest of the bazaar where it always stood.

The Youngs were travellers.  But the Williamsons were cattlemen.  And I wanted to see some goddamn livestock being bought and sold.

Most Kashgar cab drivers are Uyghurs but speak Mandarin as a second language.  Between my Mandarin and their Mandarin, we can usually muddle through.

I tried three times, getting into the back of three different taxis, but I could not explain to any of them where I wanted to go.  I started with 牛羊市场 (niú yáng shìchǎng meaning “cow sheep market,” which I thought was the place’s common name) but none of them knew what I was talking about.

I tried “animal bazaar.”  They had no idea what I was saying.

Next, I tried to circumlocute.  “Not buy animals for food but buy alive animals.”  Shrugs.

Finally, I tried roleplaying.  “If I am farmer and I want buy animal.  Buy cow.  Buy sheep.  I go where?”  Nobody was getting it.

I drove around with one guy so long trying to explain that I actually paid his meter when I got out.

So, no, alas, I have not been to Kashgar’s Sunday livestock market.

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Bazaar

Lying, as it does, at an important crossroad of the Silk Road, Kashgar’s Sunday Market is legendary, providing a hub for over two thousand years where goods could be traded between East and West.
It is sprawling.  Absolutely sprawling.  It makes the biggest Walmart in the world look like one block of Venice Beach.Even though (slightly) covered in modern times, the recent snow had turned the floor into a gellid, muddy mess.
Certain sections at the fringes were ominously quiet.  Others were bright and convivial, like the alleyway selling nuts and fruit.
These plastic female torsos can be used for fashion displays…  …or to collect dripping snowmelt.
Bazaar, you say?  More like bizarre, am I right?  (I allow myself one bad pun every fifty blog posts.)

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Landscape

I call this one “Blackbirds in Tree with Smokestack and Cooling Tower.”

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Concubine

The Chinese word for “concubine” is 妃子 (fēizi).  Eli & I only learned this because it comes up so often in Chinese soap operas.  There is a famous story from the Qing Dynasty about one of Emperor Qianlong‘s consorts who was known as 香妃 (Xiāng Fēi, literally meaning “Fragrant Concubine.”)  The story goes that she was a Uyghur, the daughter of a local leader in Kashgar named Afaq Khoja.  She was famous for having a naturally pleasing body scent and was given to the emperor by her father as a gift(!?) and bathed in camel’s milk every day on her journey to Beijing.  Disconsolate and homesick, the emperor went to absurd lengths to recreate her distant home — a mosque, an oasis, a bazaar, finally a jujube tree — trying to win her love, which he eventually did.  (I’m a little surprised the patriarchy hasn’t handed down her name to us in legend as the “High Maintenance Concubine.”)  The emperor loved her until her death and her body was sent back to Kashgar.

I visited the Afaq Khoja family mausoleum where the Fragrant Concubine is buried.

The family school.Elaborately carved wooden pillars, each unique.
  The sign out front poetically referred to the complex as lying “between the poplar trees and Heaven.”  I loved that, especially since the Chinese translation for the surname “Young” is 杨 (Yáng meaning “poplar”!)
This is the mausoleum where the Fragrant Concubine and her family are buried.
The mausoleum was covered with elaborate tile work.
Pictures inside were forbidden, but there were more graves just outside the building itself.  
Such obviously Arabic-influence architecture & design makes it hard to remember that, technically, this is all still China.  Xiang Fei Park stretches out in front of the mausoleum.  It was particularly melancholy in the winter.
Back inside the building complex, I saw this solitary camel.  Standing patiently.  Thinking.  Plotting?  “Soon.”  

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Dream

Saw this sign on a street divider.  It reads 中国梦,我的梦 (Zhōngguó mèng, wǒ de mèng meaning “China’s dream, my dream”)

It’s quite poetic & beautiful.  If you take it at face value.

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Population II

While I’m at it, I might as well update my population chart.

Location 地方 Population
Chongqing 重庆 52,100,000
Tokyo 东京 37,800,000
Shanghai 上海 34,000,000
Beijing 北京 24,900,000
Hangzhou 杭州 21,521,000
Tianjin 天津 15,500,000
Xi’an 西安 13,500,000
Los Angeles 洛杉矶 13,000,000
Chengdu 成都 10,500,000
Nanjing 南京 8,200,000
Hong Kong 香港 7,200,000
Harbin 哈尔滨 6,700,000
Singapore 新加坡 5,600,000
Yichang 宜昌 4,060,000
Ürümqi 乌鲁木齐 3,550,000
Taipei 臺北 2,700,000
Xining 西宁 2,200,000
Datong 大同 1,600,000
Kyoto 京都 1,500,000
Kashgar 喀什 819,000
Dujiangyan 都江堰 657,000
Jiayuguan 嘉峪关 232,000
Lhasa 拉萨 223,000
Glendale 格伦代尔 200,000
Shanhaiguan 山海关 140,000
Burbank 伯班克 105,000
Nikko 日光 85,000

(I used the most current metro population data from Wikipedia, rounded.)

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Distance

I started wondering wondering if Kashgar was the farthest I had ever been from where I grew up.  (Almost, but not quite, as it turns out.)  In the spirit of the population and elevation charts, I made this:

Location 地方 Distance from Burbank, CA
Mount Everest, Tibet 珠穆朗玛峰 7,830 miles
Kashgar, Xinjiang 喀什 7,262 miles
Milford Sound, New Zealand 新西兰 7,135 miles

(All distances according to Google.)

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