Donkey

Out past the Gold Sand River on the Apricot Mountain Road (aren’t Chinese street names poetic?) there is a little shop that sells cured donkey meat.  You can guess that first character on the lantern 驴 (lǘ) is “donkey” because the radical is 马 (mǎ which means “horse.”)  And, sure enough 肉 means meat.

And no, before you ask, donkey does not “taste like ass.”  Cured donkey meat tastes a lot like chopped, low-grade corned beef and it’s served in a puffy, crispy flatbread that almost seemed like an airy taco shell.  I’d eat it again, but I wouldn’t seek it out.  More than anything, it made me crave a really good pastrami sandwich.See?  Apricot Mountain Road.

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Jest II

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Jest

And but so it wasn’t entirely unselfconsciously that I took my second daily dose of bupropion1 just before I finished reading David Foster Wallace’s Infinite Jest, with its ending less like an exit through the gift shop and more like finding oneself at an artless dead-end in a museum notorious for being both vast and bereft of adequate signage.  It wasn’t as if the preceding one thousand seventy-eight (but who’s counting?) pages  were a monument to narrative cohesion, either, and were more akin to whetting one’s whistle on the proverbial firehose.  In this way the novel is antipodal to the spare, nigh-Pointillist story “For sale: baby shoes, never worn” most often attributed2 to Hemingway3.

The experience for the novel’s reader qua reader was not unlike listening to Robin Williams4 as he riffed, flooded by a torrent of allusions and impressions and occasional insights which ultimately left one washed out to sea and set adrift with the only hope of rescue, the S.S. I Guess You Had to Be There, receding and vanishing inelectuably over the horizon.  One could argue, pace documentarian Ken Burns with his sentimental slow zooms in on vignetted and sepia toned stills of long dead heroine-addicted mathematical savants, that this sort of improvisation is at the heart of jazz, America’s one truly autochthonous art form5, which also happens to be the one musical genre guaranteed to give me the howling fantods thanks in no small part to the fact that it was played by my father ad nauseum throughout my childhood coupled with the axiomatic truth that a parent’s passions engender one of two reactions in their offspring:  the area of interest is embraced (forming relationship) or wholeheartedly rejected (forming identity.)

Even setting all Oedipal/Electral and it’s-the-notes-he-doesn’t-play pontification aside, the novel’s central conceit if not outright raison d’être seemed to be a relentless campaign to force the reader to shift their attention from theme to character to trivia like a particularly maniacal stereoscopic6 film that pinballs the audience’s focus from background to midground to foreground, wall-eyed to crosseyed and back again, some horrific ocular equivalent of a ThighMaster workout, until the viewer’s poor peepers sting with weariness and their vitreous humor decide it’s time to ask for the check, please, and start worrying about having small change to pay the valet.  All of which leaves the perspicacious reader wondering if, in the end, the author isn’t simply showing off7 or being self-indulgent8.

Still, Infinite Jest is wildly, wildy impressive.


  1. Wellbutrin—®GlaxoSmithKline—an antidepressant whose psychochemical mechanism is, to this day, so poorly understood that it is sometimes thought of as banging an open palm against an old cathode ray tube television in hope of improving reception.
  2. Apocryphally, no doubt
  3. Ernest Hemingway, he of the Fisticuffs School of literary inspiration and, like Wallace himself, of the At His Own Hand School of unnatural death.
  4. Whose expiration seemed to blunt the career spanning outrage among fellow comedians that he, chronically if however inadvertentlya, stole jokes from the aforementioned fellow comedians. The blunting of the criticism attributable with some certainty to the circumstance of his own death being (yet another) suicide.
    1. A condition linguist, neurologist, and noted Panglossian Steven Pinker coined “kleptonesia.”
  5. Bearing in mind that all art, from comic booksa to jazzb, is predicated on repetition with variation.
    1. Understanding Comics, Scott McCloud.
    2. Once aptly described, presumably by some cat who could really swing, as “four measures of a song, whatever the hell you want for however the hell long you want, and then two measures of the song.”
  6. Referred to in vulgate as “3D movies.”
  7. Most worrisome for me personally as the novel was strongly recommended by two friends, one of whom has insisted since adolescence that she knows me better than I know myselfa and the other, who has never claimed to know me better than I know myselfb, who was surprised to learn that I hadn’t already read it because he, after finishing it, had leapt to the erroneous conclusion that I had somehow used it, the novel, as some sort template for how I live my own life.  In fairness to both, one of the novel’s lines which resonated most strongly with me was this:  “The dedication and sustained energy that go into true perspicacity and expertise were exhausting even to think about.”
    1. She doesn’t.
    2. He might.
  8. See Note 7.
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Glorious

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Street

On New Year’s Day, we all went to a (smallish) Banksy exhibition.  After sunset, we wandered the canals of Amsterdam and admired all the holiday art installations.

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Gunpowder III

From 6pm on New Year’s Eve to 2am on New Year’s Day, the Netherlands is like a warzone.  I had no idea.

In the picture above, you can see a crowd on a bridge lighting fireworks, fireworks exploding over the river in front of the church, and fireworks exploding in the sky behind the church’s clock tower.

I have never, ever, ever seen so many fireworks.  And I live in China.

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Dam

Christmas tree on the Dam in Amsterdam.  I came here without telling anyone to surprise my dear friends the Snows (who live here) and Eric & Jessica (my friends who were spending New Years with them.)

I knocked on the Snows’ front door and my friend Shawna opened.  I asked, “Am I late for dinner?” as she was shrieking, “WHAT ARE YOU DOING HERE!?”

Such a great surprise.  Best New Years holiday ever.

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Riflessione

Some final thoughts as I leave Rome.

  • I was surprised by the number of drinking fountains all over the city.  (Shouldn’t have been, of course, considering its history of aqueducts.)
  • I saw an enormous number of Romans walking dogs.
  • Gelato is fucking delicious.
  • The Seven Hills of Rome were much lower and bunched closer together than I had imagined.
  • The layers of history are almost overwhelming.
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Silk II

I found this a fitting reminder of how the Silk Road has tied Rome and China together for centuries.

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Tritone

  Bernini‘s Fontana del Tritone in front of the Bernini Hotel in the Piazza Barberini.

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Enoteca

I spent my last night in Rome at a wine bar listening to a couple of acoustic guitarists covering — and nailing — songs by bands like Wham! and the Eurhythmics.

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Suprema

This imposing structure right next to the Castel Sant’Angelo is the Supreme Court of Cassation, the highest court in Italy.

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Tramonto

Sunset over Rome as seen from high atop the Castel Sant’Angelo.

  

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Archangeli

This statue — with metal angel’s wings — at the Castel Sant’Angelo looks proto-steampunk.

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Castellum

The cylindrical Mausoleum of Hadrian was built across the Tiber from the Campus Martius by the Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family (and should not be confused with Hadrian’s Crypt which was, as I’ve pointed out, for a totally different Hadrian.)  A ramp winds up the cylinder……to the dark cork of the structure where the families were deposited.In 401 C.E., the complex was converted to a fortress and rechristened Castel Sant’Angelo.It is said that the Archangel Michael appeared above the castle, sheathing his sword, to proclaim end of the plague of 590 C.E.In the 14th century, complex was converted once again.  This time, into a papal castle (and occasional prison.)
  
  
  


  

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